November Blog 2025
- Daniel Hodge
- Feb 13
- 4 min read
Winter Dormant Sprays for Fruit Trees
Simple, effective protection during your trees “resting season”
Winter is the most important time of year to protect fruit trees from pests and diseases, before the problems show up in spring. Dormant spraying helps prevent issues like peach leaf curl, blight, scale, aphids, and mite pressure long before they become a headache.
1. When to Apply Dormant Sprays
Dormant sprays work best when trees have no leaves or are nearly leafless:
First spray: Late fall / early winter
(After leaf drop, typically Nov–Dec)
Second spray: Mid-winter
(January, on a dry break between rains)
Optional third: Late winter
(Just before buds swell, February)
*Spacing each spray 30 days apart gives the best coverage.
2. What Dormant Sprays Actually Do
Dormant sprays work by sanitizing the bark, buds, and crevices where pests overwinter.
Copper:
-Controls peach leaf curl
-Reduces shot hole, bacterial blight
-Suppresses fungal & bacterial diseases
Horticultural / Dormant Oil:
-Smothers overwintering insect eggs
-Reduces scale, mites, aphids, whiteflies
*Copper = disease control
Oil = insect control
Using both is the gold standard for winter orchard care.
Use Spreader Sticker to prevent winter wash-off of Copper & Oil

3. Perfect Conditions for Spraying
Spray when:
-Weather is dry for 24 hours
-Temperature is above 40°F overnight
-No rain or strong wind is expected
-Trees are at least 80–100% dormant
-Avoid spraying if freezing weather is coming; oil + freezing temps can damage buds.
4. Which Fruit Trees Benefit Most
Dormant sprays are ideal for:
-Peaches & nectarines (highest need/leaf curl!)
-Plums & pluots
-Apricots
-Apples & pears
-Cherries
-Almonds
-Persimmons (oil only)
-Figs (oil only)
Citrus is not treated with dormant sprays, they need different timing.
5. How to Apply
-Spray all branches, trunk, and scaffold joints
-Coat the tree until it drips slightly
-Clean up fallen leaves and mummified fruit before spraying
-Reapply after heavy rain that occurs mid-season
*Pro Tip from Hodge’s-The final spray right before bud swell (February) is the most important for peach leaf curl prevention. Don’t skip it, that’s the spray that saves your spring flush.
Debunking Gardening Myths
Does Compost & Manure Feed Plants in Winter?
Most gardeners think compost or manure gives plants nutrients right away, but in winter cold soil slows everything down.
Here’s the real story:
Myth: Compost and manure feed plants immediately in winter.
Truth: Cold soil makes nutrients release very slowly.
Below 55°F, microbes go nearly dormant, so compost and manure don’t break down fast enough to “feed” plants right now.
They’re doing something much different, and just as important.
What They Actually Do in Winter
1. Improve soil structure
2. Boost water retention
3. Protect soil from compaction and erosion
4. Build the microbial foundation for spring
5. Encourage worms to pull organic matter into the soil
6. In winter, compost feeds the soil, not the plant.
What About Worm Castings?
Castings are the exception because they’re already broken down.
They provide:
1. A small amount of immediately available nutrients
2. Beneficial microbes
3. A gentle boost for leafy greens and herbs
*Castings = quick + mild nutrition
*Compost/manure = long-term soil health

Best Winter Strategy
Add compost or aged manure in Nov–Dec
Let rain & worms incorporate it naturally
The real feeding is in early spring (Feb–Mar) when soil warms and plants start growing again, this gives you strong soil & vigorous spring veggies.
Guide for Fall & Winter Veggies (Post-Germination)
(For Transplants & Starts during cold months)
Leafy Greens
(Lettuce, Spinach, Kale, Chard, Arugula)
Water: Keep soil evenly moist; shallow roots dry fast.
Feed: Light compost tea or fish emulsion every 3–4 weeks, along with consistent compost/castings top dress
Care: Harvest outer leaves often; protect with frost cloth on cold nights; watch for aphids.
Brassicas
(Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts)
Water: Deep watering 1–2x weekly; reduce overhead watering once heads form.
Feed: Balanced organic fertilizer to start, fish/kelp every 3-5 weeks, using compost/manure consistently
Care: Mulch heavily; inspect for cabbage worms and aphids.
Root Crops
(Carrots, Beets, Turnips, Radishes, Rutabagas)
Water: Even, steady moisture to avoid cracking.
Feed: Light compost side-dress mid-season; avoid high nitrogen.
Care: Keep mulched; thin plants early; roots sweeten after cold nights.
Garlic & Onions
Water: Light, regular water until rains take over.
Feed: Low-N, higher-P fertilizer once shoots reach 4–6 inches, get low N from consistent use of compost/castings/ and P from liquid fertilizer(bone meal).
Care: Keep weed-free; mulch well; reduce watering in spring as bulbs finish.
Peas
(Snap, Snow, Shelling)
Water: Moist but not soggy; avoid waterlogging.
Feed: Minimal, light compost tea applications or compost every 3-5 weeks
Care: Provide trellis immediately; pick often for continuous production
Cool-Season Herbs
(Cilantro, Parsley, Dill, Chives)
Water: Even moisture; don’t let soil fully dry between waterings
Feed: Light feeding only (compost tea/compost/castings)
Care: Harvest regularly; protect tender herbs in hard frosts
Cold-Weather Care for All Veggies
*Fall veggies prefer good drainage(raised beds/pots)
*Mulch 2–3 inches to stabilize soil temps
*Water before frost events to hold heat
*Use frost cloth for anything sensitive under 30°F
*Avoid strong fertilizers late in the cold season
Soil First = Stronger Spring Growth
Ideally, you want to start your cool-season garden with a balanced fertilizer in September or October while the soil is still warm. Once winter sets in, shift your focus to building soil structure and overall soil health with compost, aged manure, and worm castings. When the soil begins to warm in early spring, return to a balanced fertilizer. By investing in your soil through winter, your plants will take off in spring; healthier, stronger, and more productive.




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